Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Finishing up South Africa

I had heard a lot about the Garden Route, but didn’t really know any details about it.  The Garden Route is from just east of Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, and is a tourist route for people to visit small towns, each of which has a unique attraction.  Thanks to a quick overview with Alexa, I had a general idea of what the big towns on the Garden Route were famous for.  

I first head for Hermanus, hoping to have another few hours of whale watching bliss, but unfortunately moved on quickly as it was very windy and there were only a few whales.  Leaving Hermanus I headed for Oudtshoorn, where I did a meerkat safari (watching them come out of their holes in the morning, greeting and grooming each other), went to the Cango Caves and toured various stalagmites and stalactites (I may finally know which is which… I think) and visited an ostrich farm where I fed them, stood on the eggs (they don’t break if still full), and had the opportunity to ride one.  As they put the bag over its head to calm it down and reminded me for the second time that they did not claim any liability and the nearest hospital was 30 km away, I decided it wasn’t for me.

I later stayed in Knysna, and then headed to Tsitsikamma to do some hiking over the suspension bridges it’s famous for. As I left the Garden Route, I visited Alexa’s family in East London, where it was great to spend a night with a family away from my own J

Lesotho was next on the itinerary.  Lesotho is a small country, completely encompassed within South Africa.  It was a quick trip, including catching up with a friend from Dar who now lives in Maseru, and spending two days in Semonkong in the highlands where I complete the Guinness Book’s longest single commercial abseil (repelling) and then received an education on South African 90’s pop over a few beers.  It was only 3 nights in Lesotho, but it was the scene of my first, and only, snow in Africa (thank goodness I decided to spring for a room after camping the first night at Semonkong Lodge)!

From there, I raced to Joburg where I met up with four friends from.  Our long weekend consisted of wedding dress shopping (Dar doesn’t quite have everything), a Soweto township tour set up by our friend Kate (who used to live in Dar), more shopping, and an oil change for Baby Blue.  We stayed at our friend Anna’s house and it was great to feel like home came to me while I was traveling J 

It was sad saying goodbye to friends (or see you later since I’ll be in Dar in 3 weeks), but fortunately, Jessie stayed to drive to Harare, Zimbabwe with me.  We first drove to Musina, 10 km away from the border, to cross the Beitbridge border early in the morning, when we thought it might be better to cross (we heard it could be between 2 and 10 hours).  I now realize I have been Africanized.  I had a beetle like insect fall on my pillow from the ceiling, and I would probably still recommend the place we stayed at – it was relatively clean. 

We crossed relatively painlessly (it took 2.5 hours for us), and with a small stumble (my second traffic ticket on the trip), we headed to Great Zimbabwe, Africa’s 2nd most important archaeological site after the Egyptian Pyramids (there’s a pretty big difference between first and second place in this ranking).  We took a guided tour (it was interesting, but maybe not worth a long drive just to see it), patted ourselves on the backs for negotiating a 50% discount on our hotel, and then cursed ourselves for falling for a $25 brunch… ah well.  Onto Harare where we sampled the best Portuguese
chicken at Coimbre  and saw live music at the Book Cafe.  We were both originally apprehensive about Zim (I emailed US Embassy  security to get safety advice) but everyone was incredibly friendly and we had no issues.


Jessie flew back to Dar, and I spent my final day in Harare at Wild is Life (an animal orphanage/rescue) and then experienced an everyday scene – driving back into Harare and witnessing a complete city blackout around me.  But I still got a good night’s sleep and set off for Mana Pools.  That will be saved for a different blog, as it justifies its own…

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